►Watch Mark Mathews in a barrel behind Taj Barrow - STAB Magazine
►Watch Mark Mathews's wipeout on rocks
I was in NYC doing a Public Speaking job for a major bank there. I saw a monster swell on the forecast headed to the Right in WA and decided to leave the conference early to chase after it. I was really tired and jet lagged after just flying from Sydney to NYC so it was hard to turn around and jump straight back on a plane.
Then on top of that. I've never had so many things go wrong in trying to get to a swell before. cancelled flights, Lost luggage, broken jet skis, etc etc.. Every time something went wrong i thought to myself this is a sign i shouldn’t be chasing this swell. The universe is trying to tell me something, some thing bad is going to happen. I ended up going anyway and getting one of the best waves of my life and winning the Oakley Bog Wave Awards.
Now i know the universe doesn’t actually talk to you. Its to busy. And what you think are signs are just your fears talking to you. Laugh in there face.
When and how did you start doing your sport?My dad got me into it. Then my mum would have to come out and rescue me when i was stuck out the back.
When did you decide to become a pro? I wanted to be a pro straight after school but it didn’t work out so i worked in bars and layer carpet to afford to chase swells then eventually i got sponsored.
How did you become a part of O’Neill? Ex pro and legend aussie surfer Rob Bain signed me up after he saw photos of me in O'Neill wetsuits in huge barrels.
What makes you unreasonable? I will go to unreasonal lengths for what I love. Family/ friends and surfing.
What has been a highlight in your career? Beating shane dorian in the first ever Red Bull Cape fear event. An event concept that took me 2 years to get off the ground.
What are your plans for the future? Sign with O'Neill for life, Get an Invite to the Eddie, Win the WSL big wave world tour, Buy my mum a house, have kids, get married and get as many barrels in-between all that as possible.
Name 10 things you never travel without? Boards, O'Neill Wetsuits, Fins, Computer, Phone, Blue dinosaur Paleo bars, 6pack Rebull, Modom grip and Britt Jones.
What motivates you to get out of bed in the morning? Buying my mum a house so she can retire and getting barrelled.
If we visited you at breakfast, what would you be eating? Bacon and egg wrap and a Mocha.
If you weren’t surfing, what would you do? I don’t even want to consider it.
Any other sports you’re good at? I can swim pretty good. which is awesome for how many wipeouts I have.
What music are you listening to? Right now ,Sam Smith. I love remixed old school funk too.
What has been the scariest moment in your sport career? Barrel behind TB (see Related Articles)
What was your most embarrassing moment in your career/life? I ve had some really funny wipeouts trying to scamper up rocks! (see Related Articles)
How does your training routine look like? Pool and gym work. Focusing on staying in a relaxed state regardless of the exercise.
Describe your perfect day? Wake at 6 head to Cape fear. Get barrelled all morning. Come home take Britt Jones surfing at Maroubra, to have an afternoon bbq with family and friends and watch the South Sydney Rabbitos smash the Sydney city Roosters.
"If your reading this you are lucky. Your not one of the 70 million blind people on earth. Be grateful."