Mark Mathews
SURFING
When the swell forecasts predict waves over 40 feet, that's when Australian Mark Matthews starts getting excited. The Australian surfer will drop everything to get to big surf. He prefers his waves thick, slabby, hollow – think Teahupoo, but even scarier – and is constantly redefining the limits of waves humans can physically ride.
When Mark was just a kid, he was terrified of big waves. "I remember being 12 or 13 and if the surf was big, my mum would have to come rescue me," said Mark whose entire family surfs.
Just two years ago, Mark caught the wave of the day at the 2007 Monster Energy Pro at Pipeline, Hawaii, earning him global recognition. "I was sitting in the lineup and Pipe was maxing out that day. I only caught one wave and it was terrible, so I was feeling rather embarrassed. Finally a wave came, and I paddled as deep as I could and barely made it out of the barrel."
Those who witnessed it say it was one of the best tube waves ever ridden at Pipeline. The drop was so steep, the lip so thick; no one thought he would make it out. Just as it looked like he had disappeared into the caverns of the ocean wall, a massive shot of frothy white water ejected Mark back onto the face and he was still standing. The ride not only earned him a perfect score of 10 and the notorious "Makita Wave of the Day" award, but the wave gained him recognition at one of the most legendary surfing spots in the world.
UNSTOPPABLE
Since then, Mark has been unstoppable in his quest for bigger waves. A few months ago, Mark collected $20,000 for winning the "Biggest Wave Ridden" at the 2009 Oakley Surfing Life Big Wave Awards, solidifying his place as a permanent fixture amongst big wave riding giants. That particular wave was estimated at 14 meters (that's about a 45 foot face) at Cow Bombie, in Western Australia last September.
Mark comes from Maroubra, a small working class coastal town east of Sydney, known for the infamous group of surfers called "The Bra Boys." A documentary about the group was released in 2007 and features a scene from Mark's 21st birthday party where the group had a run-in with police officers celebrating their Christmas Party at the same venue. Surfers from Maroubra stick closely together, and Mark has a tight group of friends, including guys like Koby Abberton, who constantly charge big waves.
"When I was 16, I moved next to Koby and started tagging along with him wherever he surfed. He was constantly chasing big waves, so I just stated getting a feel for them."
Today, Mark rearranges his entire life if he knows a swell is approaching." I usually have three days to prepare before I spot a swell, so I run around to get jet-skis, a photographer, equipment and other surfers to come along. It's chaos, but it's the best feeling when I actually get to ride a big wave."
Mark's family is highly educated and they all surf together whenever they get the chance. His dad is a surgeon, his mom runs a yoga retreat in New York and his sister teaches in China. "I'm probably the dumbest of the lot," he said laughing. But don't be fooled, being able to forecast waves, organizing a crew of surfers in a few hours, and being mentally prepared to ride mountains of water that reach over 40 feet high, requires someone who is mentally rock-solid.
THE ULTIMATE WATER WARRIOR
It's in the water where Mark feels most comfortable, where all his senses come alive and where he feels the most challenged. On land, Mark says, "Everything else I do is real cruisey and mellow."
When waves are flat or between injuries (unfortunately they come with the territory), Mark plays piano, the guitar, or picks up a new instrument to pass the time until he can surf again. He makes a conscious effort to keep his energy positive, especially in the weeks before a big swell.
"Emotions waste energy so I spend a lot of time focusing my thoughts in a positive direction," said Mark, noting that he was recently recruited to share his mentally tough approach to conquer impossible waves with some of the biggest surf companies in the world.
Mark could easily compete on the entire Qualifying Series or do corporate coaching forever, but in the end, his relentless determination and endless quest to ride bigger waves keeps him on a linear path. "I just want to find and surf the biggest barrels I can," he said, pausing…"They scare the hell out of me, but that's what makes them so exciting."
A few words with Mark
We had a few words with Mark Mathews during a recent visit to the O'Neill offices.
Danilo Couto Wins Ride of the Year at XXL Awards!
All eyes of the surfing world were focused on the Grove Theater in Anaheim, California this past Friday for the XXL Big Wave Awards. A night filled with emotional celebrations for the biggest and heaviest waves ridden over the last twelve months was highlighted by O'Neill Team rider Danilo Couto winning top honour - Ride of the Year for his amazing air drop at the infamous big wave spot Jaws. Forever considered a wave that was too big and too fast to paddle in to, Couto and an elite group of big wave surfers began to take on the massive waves off the coast of Maui without jet ski assist. After getting one swell under his belt a large swell with extremely challenging conditions hit Jaws on February 8. It was then that Couto air dropped in to a wall of water taller than a five-story building and earned himself XXL Big Wave Ride of the Year.
An air drop that would've seemed to last an eternity, Couto landed half way down the wall of water and side-slipped the face of the wave before regaining control and pulling up for an amazing ride in the bowl of the wave before safely exiting to the safety of the channel, a ride of a life time for the Brazilian and a new chapter in the surfing history books. Couto reflected on his accomplishment and being a part of the big wave paddle renaissance, "I've been feeling really good for two months, ever since I caught that wave," said Couto. "I couldn't sleep for days, knowing I had done something so special. To be a part of surf history, to have an impact, it's special."
Over one thousand images and videos were submitted for judging for the XXL Awards, winners were decided by a panel of several hundred surfers, photographers and surf media editors. A previous nominee for the XXL Awards, Couto's mission this past winner was to take home the top honour."From the start of the season my goal has been to win the Ride of the Year in the XXL by paddling into a wave at Jaws. I knew it was possible and wanted to show the world. I have surfed huge waves at Jaws and other places towed in by jet skis but I have always believed that the best, most pure and rewarding way of surfing big waves is by paddling into them and that's what I have been dedicating all my energies towards." Married with a young daughter, the thirty-six year old Couto has lived on the North Shore of Oahu for the last fifteen years. He is a native of the city of Salvador, in Bahia, Brazil, where he first stood on a surfboard in 1985. The transplanted Brazilian is proud to represent his native country and thankful for his life in Hawaii today, "I also did this for my country and it's proud and patriotic people. Coming from Brazil things are always harder to accomplish but we never give up. I also want to thank the people of Hawaii and their hospitality. It's where I call home and I have received so many blessings from the ocean. It's where I made my family, had a daughter born and have a lot of friends so I feel very lucky for all of that. Jaws is one of my favourite spots. More than that I feel I have a spiritual connection with it; it's a sacred place. Big wave riding is about respecting the ocean and being connected with it..."
An emotional part of the evening was when the late Sion Milosky won Big Wave Performer of the Year. Cuoto was in the water at Maverick´s when his friend and fellow big wave rider Sion Milosky died in March. For Couto the loss was shocking, specially knowing that Sion leaves a wife and two beautiful daughters behind. Nonetheless Danilo believes that, "considering that our passage on earth is such a short one, there is a certain beauty to die doing what you love". Couto will donate a portion of his $50,000 prize money to the Sion Milosky foundation. The big wave surf community is a small elite group that is held together with a uniquely strong bond that is formed by the fact that each other's lives are often on the line, looking out for one another is a natural trait for these surfers. While Couto is proud of his accomplishment he knows he wasn't alone, "It has been a great year for me and my friends pushing the big wave paddle movement at Jaws," Couto proudly stated after the awards Friday night. "I was the one that caught the wave but it's important to say that you don't do something like that alone. So I have to give thanks and share this emotion with my friends and family.
Australia's Mark Matthews has been rewarded the peoples choice "Worst Wipeout" honour for his heroics gone awfully wrong at the 2011 Billabong XXL awards. Shipsterns Bluff in the icy & remote waters of Tasmania can deliver you the wave of your life or a pounding you'll never forget. Matthews has seen both sides of the Dr Jeckyl & Mr Hyde mutant they call "Shippies". "That wipe-out in particular was super violent, I just covered my head and hoped I didn't hit the bottom" Matthews recalled at home in Maroubra, Australia. "That wave was so insane, I thought I'd made it to the bottom then it stepped out on me, I barely handled the first bump and tried to hold my line in the barrel as it warped again. I knew I was gone but tried to hang on, next thing I was upside down getting so smashed I thought the power of the wave was going to rip me in half" Mark reflected. "I'm honoured to win the award, its just cool to be recognized amongst the best big wave guys in the world regardless of the accolade". "I'm donating the money I won to Sion Molosky's wife and children. I got to know Si really well during the late season in Hawaii this year, we surfed Waimea a bunch together. It's so sad to see such a nice guy lose his life and leave a widow and 2 young children. Giving them the cash is the least I could do"
Mark who recently signed a 5-year deal with O'Neill International is currently chasing Australia's autumn swells and favorable conditions hunting the biggest waves the country has to offer. " I love this time of year in Australia, there's heaps of swell and epic conditions" Matthews said. " And having O'Neill back me for the next 5 years is amazing, I can do what I love properly which is chasing and riding the biggest waves on the planet".
Mark Mathews surfing inside Ours
Mark Mathews inside Ours with a hand-held video camera.
Awesome footage!
MARK MATHEWS SCORES THE BIGGEST BARREL OF HIS LIFE
O'Neill big wave surfer Mark Mathews 20km off the coast of WA
O'Neill surfer Mark Mathews has scored one of the biggest and heaviest barrels ever ridden – in shark infested waters some 20km off the coast of Western Australia.
The 26 year old from Maroubra in Sydney waited about six hours in order to get this incredible 15 second ride.
"It had been really slow all day and I hadn't had any good ones," said Mark. "Then this mountain came roaring out from the horizon I got goose bumps all over as soon as I saw it. I looked up at Hippo (Ryan Hipwood) who was on the jet ski and he didn't even smile he just said "this thing's huge."
"There was so much water sucking off the reef. I just kept my eyes right in front of me and hoped the corner of the barrel wasn't about to lip me in the head."
Trying to describe the sensation, Mark said: "Big barrels like that feel like they are alive. They suck all the air inside. That's what surfers mean when they say they felt the wave take a breath."
"You feel like you're surrounded by the whole ocean. The air has nowhere left to go and just gets spat out into the channel, taking you with it. This is the feeling that keeps coming back over and over and over again."
"This one can be topped," said Mark. "It's the thrill of the chase that keeps me going."
Most embarrassing moment?
First day at a new co-ed schoolmy mate and I were at the back of the class he waited till it was really quiteto let one rip when all the girls turned around disgusted he quickly blamed iton me
Favourite quote?
"Your happiness depends on yourperception"
Chocolate of Vanilla?
Chocolate
Glass on fins or fin system? Why?
Fcs, travel variety
Favourite surf destination andwave?
Caroline islands p pass
Favourite manoeuvre?
Air reverse can hardly do em soit feels so good make one
Celebrity crush?
Jessica Alba
What's in your travelling quiver?
Unbreakable 62 aloha
Status (married, single,whatever)?
Beautiful girlfriend Sarah
Favourite website?
You tube
Sounds?
KidMac (wings and aquarius Queen)
Biggest influence in your life?
Mum and dad
Favourite surfer?
Rasta
What traits in the opposite sexare most attractive?
Happiness
Worst wipeout?
Tassie knocked unconsciousthought I broke my neck took 5 hours too get back to the hospital thought thewhole time I wouldn't be able too surf again ended up be all good though!!
Words to live by?
"The only time we suffer
is when webelieve a thought that argues with what is.
When the mind is perfectly clear,what is is what we want."
Byron Katie.